Merino wool is renowned for its softness, warmth, and versatility. However, there are different grades that determine the quality and characteristics of the wool.
You may have noticed the terms "microns" and "g/m²" or "GMS" associated with merino wool products...
These are two important terms to understand when choosing a merino wool garment, and it's really not rocket science!
Microns refer to the diameter of the fiber, which determines its softness and GSM ( grams per square meter) or in French g/m² indicates the weight of the wool, i.e., the density of the fabric.
In this article, I will explain the distinctions between the different grades of merino wool, with particular emphasis on weight, microns and other crucial aspects such as the origin of the fiber and the composition of the fabric, because very often, garments are described as being made of "merino" when they are, in reality, composed of a small proportion of genuine merino wool.
Here are 4 essential points to consider when shopping for merino wool clothing.
1. Fabric composition
It is essential to always carefully examine the composition of merino wool products. Many garments claiming to be "merino" actually contain higher proportions of synthetic materials than merino wool. This is a practice designed to reduce production costs and can be misleading for the consumer.
Therefore, if you are looking for a product with all the properties of merino wool, it is best to choose those made from 100% merino wool such as Timininous products, or to choose a blend made up mostly of merino wool.
2. Microns: the measure of thinness
The diameter of a merino wool fiber is measured in microns. The lower the number of microns, the finer the wool.
Interesting fact: a human hair measures on average 50 microns… The majority of the merino wool we use at Timininous is 18.5 microns! This means that merino wool yarn is incredibly fine!
Here are the ways to categorize the different types of wool according to their micron count:
Less than 15 microns
This is truly the cream of the crop in terms of fineness. These fibers are extremely soft and luxurious. This wool is categorized as "ultrafine".
It is very rare, very expensive and reserved for delicate projects.
From 15 to 19 microns
The fibers in this category are called "super fine" and offer exceptional softness.
These are the fibers that we primarily use for our clothing.
It is only possible to produce super fine merino wool in small quantities, which increases the price of this quality of wool.
From 19.5 to 24 microns
This type of mid-grade merino wool offers a good balance between softness and durability.
It is used for close-fitting clothes, but also for blazers.
Microns greater than 24
Merino wools with a thickness greater than 24 microns are considered relatively thick and rough.
They are used for items where softness is not a priority, such as rug making.
3. The weight of the wool
The number of g/m2 (grams per square meter) or GSM (grams per square meter), is a measure of the density of merino wool in a fabric or knit, also called weight.
This measurement is used to assess the weight or thickness of wool fabric, which can have implications for its use and performance.
More specifically, the g/m² figure indicates the weight of merino wool per square meter of fabric. A higher value generally means a denser and heavier fabric, while a lower value indicates a lighter fabric.
A fabric with a higher g/m2 number will generally have better thermal insulation, as it contains more wool fibers per unit area.
For example, our fleece wool has a weight of 360 g/m² and the wool we use for our base layers varies between 200 and 250 g/m².
4. The origin of merino wool
The quality of wool depends on several factors, including climate, sheep diet, flock genetics, and breeding practices.
Merino wool from regions renowned for their merino breeding, such as the Australian highlands, the New Zealand Alps and the Argentine pampas, is often considered among the best in the world due to the combination of these factors.
The wool we use at Timininous comes mainly from Australia, the world's leading producer of merino wool.
When buying merino wool products, we recommend checking the wool's origin and looking for certifications that attest to ethical and sustainable farming practices, such as RWS, Woolmark, ZQ, Nativa, etc. This not only ensures better quality but also provides assurance regarding animal welfare and production sustainability.
In conclusion, understanding merino wool grades is essential for making informed choices when purchasing wool garments. Terms such as microns, fabric composition, wool weight, and fiber origin play a crucial role in determining the quality and characteristics of the wool.